Domelands Hike

February 11, 2003

For lack of better words, the Domelands hike today with Ed and Steve was one of the loveliest days of hiking I have experienced.

 

Tuesday evening we lost about 40% of our group due to the inclement weather. Wednesday morning I met Steve Pate at the Gopher Canyon park-n-ride on the SE corner of I-15 in the rain at 6:00am  .. and it was raining. We drove in the rain through Valley Center ... through the San Pasqual and Rincon Indiana Reservations to road 76. Then in the rain through the LaJolla Indian Reservation, and then along lake Henshaw to Road 79. In the rain from 79 to S-2 and almost all the way to road 78 and Scissors crossing where it stopped except for a few sprinkles.

 

We drove south on S-2 to Ed's abode in Shelter Valley passing such road names as: Tangle Foot, Kicking Horse, Jackass, Great Sandy, Broken Cinch, Lucky Devil, Coffee Pot, Rocky Mountain, Last Dollar, Fire Water, Stage Coach, Shooting Iron, Tangle Foot, Grub Stake Trail, etc

 

 ... the Chanber of Commerce changed the town's name some time ago from Earthquake Valley to Shelter Valley for some unknown reason. We had contacted Ed on 147.555 (triple-nickle) so he was ready when we arrived at 7:45am.

 

It was decided that Ed would drive his truck and Steve and I would follow in my truck. We passed all of the familiar places: Little Blair Valley with its star gazing, (Ghost mountain, Morteros, Indian paintings, Whale Peak), Box Canyon where the Morman Brigade used axes to chop through a pass, Palm Spring, Butterfield Stage Coach road leading to the mud caves, Bow Willow with the palms and rock house, Canyon Sin Nombre with its slot canyon where caterpillars dropped on us like rain two years ago, and finally to the Domeland turn off on the east site of the road.

 

We drove in about a mile or so on a dirt road which did not even have the familiar washboard. Almost any vehicle could make it in easily. We parked at the trail head, checked out our equipment (ham radios, GPS, and water) and headed up the well marked trail sometime around 8:45am.

 

The hike up in to the hills was a rather easy uphill climb although rather steady. We passed all sorts of side washes, many different types of Cholla, and an ever increasing view of land shapes, colors, and textures. We were beginning to see more and more rock faces with holes in them which I suspect that small animals and birds made good use of.

 

At the top of a series of ever increasing hills we finally came upon the Domelands Dome. From a distance it just looked like another big rock with holes in it. Then as we got closer it started looking like a modern house with windows. As we approached the Dome we were finding all sorts of sea shells scattered all over the ground and imbedded in rocks.

 

Upon arriving at the Dome, Ed showed us a rock table which had multitudes of marine fossils neatly laid out on it of which I have several pictures. Ed took us inside of the Dome Cave House and proceeded to explain where the cooking area was located and where the eating area was. Next he took us out on a rock ledge to the bedroom which could sleep a rather large group of hikers. Remember, this is a natural rock formation and not man made.

 

I suggested that this hike would be a great easy hike for those that would like to do a overnight hike with very little difficulty. Ed agreed and even suggested that quite possibly the hike could be with a gourmet dinner with candles (I like candles) ....a fantastic meal where everyone brought something gourmet and then topping it all off with a glass of wine for those so inclined. To me, this really sounds like a great idea for a beginners overnight ..... or even "old timers" helping the new folks!

 

From the Dome, Steve, Ed and I headed down a draw from the Dome in search of the Natural Bridge. On the way down we found steep vertical walls made up almost entirely of small sea shells. At sometime in the past this was a sea bottom or large inland lake where for centuries these little sea animals died and dropped to the bottom eventually to make up the present walls of sea shells 20-50 feet high ... or as high as we could see clearly.

 

After having our pictures taken at the natural bridge, we decided it was time to head back to the trail head where the cars were parked. The way back was somewhat uneventful except that we had to say "goodbye" to this wondrous place and re climb rock ledges and boulders we had passed before.

 

At the top of the crest it was mostly down hill from there to the cars although we still had less than two miles more to go. Ed gave me the option of some cross country hiking which I could not turn down so we parted with Steve and Ed heading north to connect up with the incoming path we had used on the way up.

 

I made it back to the truck at 2:40pm and while waiting I picked up trash in the area: shotgun shells, beer bottles, San Diego paper, copper bullets, coat hangers and miscellaneous paper items.

 

Our trip home up S-2 was interrupted with a stop next to the airfield at Agua Caliente to check on the Agua Caliente Hot Springs tubs and for a tour of the sites above the Box Canyon where Ed pointed out the two paths that had been used: the upper was by the Morman Battalion and the lower by the Butterfield Stage Coach.

 

After saying goodbye to Ed, Steve and I headed up S-2 above Scissors Corsing and again into drizzle which we had most of the way back to the park-n-ride.

 

Ed, many thanks for getting us out on this most delightful hike and for sharing your previous experiences with us. And many many thanks to Steve for sticking with me on a raining Wednesday morning which turned into one of the loveliest hikes I have taken.

 

We started in the rain. We had a lovely day. We ended in the rain.

 

Thanks guys!

Stan, W9FQN

OK, Stan, I'll make a few comments, but your write-up captured most of my impressions.

This was actually my first "desert" hike, although I've been out a few times in San Diego County.  I found the scenery spectacular.  Desert plants, such as the varieties of Cholla the Ocotillo plants dispersed throughout the Domelands, fragrant sage, and other sparse vegetation are unusual and interesting to someone who has spent a great deal of time outdoors in the Midwest and the North Woods.  I am accustomed to navigating with a map & compass and found orienting myself in the depths of a steep canyon "different".  Ed & Stan spent some time with my compass, Ed's map and Stan's GPS to verify our precise location to within a few feet: that, too, was interesting to me.

One observation that puzzles me somewhat is the apparent scarcity of wildlife out there.  I heard (did not see) an eagle, but that was it.  Stan ran across an ant colony on the way back to the trail head, and we saw plenty of "pocket mouse" burrows.  I'm told Bighorn sheep, mule deer, coyotes and mountain lions inhabit that area, and I suppose most reptiles are still hibernating.

'Twas indeed a great day and I look forward to many more such hikes, although I don't think I would want to do the same hike in late July/early August--that's the ideal time to canoe and portage through Quetico Provincial Park.

Again, I'd like to add my thanks to Ed for instigating a fine day in the desert!  I enjoyed the company of both these fine folks.

Regards to all,

Steve